| Kabul | Shuhada Saleheen


Shuhada Saleheen, or the 'Pious Martyrs', is a large cemetery that lies in a fold of the hills to the south east of the citadel of Bala Hissar in Kabul. The proliferation of argharwan (Judas) trees on the slopes above the cemetery serves as a reminder how the hills in and around the city must have been before they were built on. To the north of Shuhada Saleheen lies the wetland of Qul-e Hashmat Khan, which Babur mentions as a favourite duck-shoot in his memoirs and which forms an important part of the ecosystem of this part of Kabul - see  https://www.afghanistan-analysts.org/kabul-duck-alert-afghan-capital-still-important-stopover-for-migrating-waterbirds/ . The recently-excavated Buddhist monastery complex of Tapa Narenj indicates that the area has been a site of significance from at least the 4th century AD. Graves from the Islamic era in the cemetery date back to the Timurid period and perhaps the most well-known to Kabulis is Ziarat-e Hazrat Tamim wa Jabr-e Ansar, a mausoleum erected in around 1822. Afghan historians suggest that Jabr was probably the son of the poet and mystic Khwaja Abdullah Ansari, while Hazrat Tamim was a companion of the Prophet, said to have been killed in Kabul in around 664 AD, during one of the first campaigns of the Muslim armies against Kabul. A less well-known mausoleum in the cemetery is that of Alim Khan, the last Amir of Bukhara (see gallery for Baghe Padshah Bukhara), who died in exile in Kabul.


View of Shuhada Saleheen towards north east with Qul e Hashmat Khan, May 2016
View over upper part of Shuhada Saleheen from south, June 2012
Illegal encroachment above Shuhada Saleheen with Bal Hissar in background, May 2016
Stupa platform on Tapa Narenj with Bala Hissar in background, May 2016
East elevation of Seh Oghur mausoleum before conservation, 2009
Interior view of Seh Oghur mausoleum before restoration, June 2009
Detail of ruined mausoleum, 2006
The mausoleum of Alim Khan (ex-Amir of Bukhara), April 2012
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